A New Twist on an Old Fall Classic - Beets

By: Laurie L.

Beets happen to be one of the few vegetables that Canadians manage to grow successfully, or, in other words, in great excess. Other vegetables in the beet family include Swiss chard, which is a stronger tasting beet green, and potatoes. This limited variety provides for a not particularly inspiring assortment. Beets are also one of the few vegetables that manage to last into September and beyond, once out of the ground and inside the fridge.

I had rarely come into contact with beets until four years ago when my parents discovered that they grew several times more successfully than carrots. I felt very unfortunate then, as suddenly, I found myself eating boiled beets every day. I concede that, yes, sometimes it was golden beets, red beets, or the occasional serving of striped beet, but the repetition eventually led me to desperately try and find other methods of consumption; the following recipes are among those that resulted.

Both of the recipes attached use a combination of beets and chocolate, the most popular pairing that I have heard of. It makes sense as well, since chocolate is assertive enough in its own right to stand up to beets. Recipes, other than the ones I have included, can contain beets solely on their own. I have also tried a mille crêpe that introduces beets alongside some more delicate flavors.

I don’t mind the taste of beets now - although candied beets are still a bit beyond me. To be honest, the current issue at hand is the Swiss chard influx (which is the new vegetable that graces the table every evening). Nonetheless, I’m still left with the same lingering sentiments of finding yet another way to eat the infamous beet.

Chocolate Beet Cake

This was the first beet-related endeavor I made, a couple years ago. Neither beet cakes nor chocolate and beets are particularly new ideas. This recipe is loosely adapted from “Golden Layer Cake” recipe from How to Cook Everything by Mark Bittman.

• ¼ cup butter
• 1/3 cup + 2 tbsp sugar
• 1 egg
• 1 cup red beet puree (from approx. 4 beets)
• 1.5 oz dark chocolate, melted
• 1/4 cup cocoa powder
• 1 cup flour
• 1 tsp baking powder
• ¼ tsp baking soda
• a generous pinch of salt
• ½ cup milk
• 1 egg white

1. Beat egg white until it reaches firm peaks (but not stiff), and set aside.
2. Cream butter and sugar, beat in egg, and then melted chocolate.
3. Ensure beet puree is at room temperature before adding to butter mixture.
4. Sift together cocoa powder, flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt.
5. Alternate adding flour mixture and milk in a few additions.
6. Fold in egg white.
7. Bake at 350°F. Batter fills around 10 cupcakes for around 20 minutes, or one buttered and floured loaf pan or 8” cake pan for around 40 minutes. Check the cake with a skewer; it is done when there are only a few crumbs clinging.

 

Beet Mille-Crêpe

I made this particular favourite of mine last month. Have I ever mentioned I adore my crêpe pan – self-seasoned and all? It is my pride and joy.

This crêpe recipe is slightly adapted from How to Cook Everything by Mark Bittman, and the pastry cream recipe is generously adapted from Laura Calder (http://www.foodnetwork.ca/recipes/
recipe.html?dishid=9013). In retrospect, to ensure the lavender can be tasted, I would sprinkle extra, dried, crumbled, lavender flowers over the occasional layer.


Crêpes (approx. 24)

• 2 cups flour
• a pinch of salt
• 3 tbsp sugar
• 1 ½ cups milk
• ½ cup water
• 4 eggs
• 4 tbsp neutral oil

1. Sift together flour, salt and sugar. Add milk, water and eggs, beat until mostly lump free, however also trying to avoid beating in air. Let rest, refrigerated, for at least an hour.
2. Skim off foam that rises to the top; this can be used to make the first crêpe to test the temperature of the pan. Mix in oil.
3. Heat a 9” pan, either well seasoned or non-stick over medium heat. Brush with a thin layer of oil.
4. Ladle in enough batter to swirl and cover the bottom of the pan (if there is excess, pour out). Let cook until set and edges are slightly dry. Loosen edges with a spatula, and flip with fingertips. Allow batter to cook until both sides are fully set, remove to a plate.
5. Repeat until all the batter has been used up. If batter browns too quickly, lower the heat, and if the batter takes too long to set, raise the heat.

Pastry Cream

• 3 tbsp cream
• 4 oz white chocolate, finely chopped
• A few sprigs of lavender
• 1 ¼ cups milk
• 5 egg yolks
• 1 tbsp sugar
• Scant 3 tbsp cornstarch
• 1/2 cup beet puree
• ½ cup heavy cream, whipped

1. In a small bowl, heat 3 tbsp cream until boiling, and pour over white chocolate, stir until melted.
2. Remove lavender flowers from stem and add to milk in a small saucepan. Heat milk until steaming, and gradually add to chocolate, whisking until smooth.
3. Whisk together eggs, sugar, and cornstarch until smooth.
4. Reheat milk until steaming, gradually pour into eggs in order to temper and prevent curdling.
5. Return to pan, and cook over med-low heat, whisking constantly, until pastry cream is thickened. Transfer to bowl, beat in beet puree, cover, and let cool.
6. Fold in whipped cream. Chill until ready to assemble.

Assembly

1. Spread each crêpe with a thin layer of pastry cream, and stack another on top. Repeat until all crêpes have been used.
2. Chill for at least a couple hours before serving to allow everything to set.